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Rockclimbs Around Melbourne Corrections

These corrections have been listed by page number. They have been provided by the author and various other users of the guide. If you have any corrections that you believe are relevant please send them to Tracey Skinner at

Corrections in black text have already been added to our Rockclimbs Around Melbourne iPhone app.
The corrections in blue text have not been added to our Rockclimbs Around Melbourne iPhone app.

p20. The traverse on the Front Face image is marked as 27. It should be 26.
p22. The text box says “routes 16, 17, 18” are off to the right. This should be “routes 17, 18, 19”.
p23. Crinkle Cut (15) has had a bolt added to the lower section (probably the crux). By permission from the first ascentionist. The rusty carrot on the top section has been replaced by two bolts, one lower and one higher. Crinkle Cut is now a worthwhile lead for the aspiring grade 15 slab climber, but bear in mind (a) you’ll still deck if you fall off the easy moves between bolts 1 and 2 (unlikely), and (b) the top section is still run-out. The grade is probably 15 mainly because of the thin moves off the ground.
p24. Tewksbury (17) has had a second bolt added. By permission from the first ascentionist. The first 6m still has no gear, but after that the protection is reasonable until the angle eases.
p24. Bill and Ben (15). The decrepit piton has now been replaced by a bolt. The original piton is still there for now but will be removed at some stage. Note: the belay bolts for this route can be found in the right-most water runnel. The position of these bolts on the topo is about right.

p30. There is no lower-off above Anal Crank.
p31. Slave Girl
is grade 23 to lead it from the ground placing runners as you go. Grade 22 with pre-placed gear.
p32. Snatch and Grab is pretty slick these days and is now grade 21.
p32. Cut Lunch Cowboys is too contrived and (except for the final moves) is fairly worthless. The bolts don’t inspire confidence either.
p34. Barbra Streisand is regarded by most people as grade 23.
p34. Tina the Ballerina is grade 22 only if you climb it direct up the wall. Most people veer into Vulcan which probably makes it about grade 21. This is an excellent variation though and still worth its 2 stars.
p34. Octavia is probably solid grade 19 (old-fashioned climbing).
p34. The arete between Ben Hur and Marcus Schaevola is called Scipio Africanus (17). It has three ring-bolts and a double ring lower-off. FA by Kim Wepasnick Taggart & Glenn Tempest. October 2012. 
p37. Redex Iriont Sudano (23).  Some people have suggested that this climb is fairly stiff for grade 23. It is, but it is not grade 24.
p37. Poko Wall. The first bolt is usually stick-clipped and can start up Phaedron Direct (stay left of the first two bolts) or can be started by pulling directly onto the face and crimp straight on through (some climbers consider this to be the legitimate way to do the route).
p.38. After the War 18m (24/5). May be slightly easier if tall or inclined to wander. Line of RBs 2m right of VVV. Clip first RB from block then return to ground to start. Nice boulder problem then grey streak direct (thin between 3rd and 4th bolts). From 4th RB diagonally right to finish as for TFTP to new double UB lower off. FA Mark Rewi 9/6/13.
p.38. Thomas the Crank Engine is probably grade 27 and could do with re-bolting. Very painful moves.

p44. The Bridge (13). The piton was recently removed and a bolt (fixed hanger) placed in almost the same position. On top of the boulder there is a badly positioned old carrot bolt and a new fixed hanger.
p47. Scansorial has a bold start. Putting brackets on the carrots is pretty tough on lead and really need replacing with FHs at some stage.
p48. Quartz Route is fairly easy for the grade and should be perhaps 16.
p48. Afternoons Direct Finish is pretty tough for grade 16 and should perhaps be 18.

p56. Sluts Honour has had a better start added (on the left past a new FH) and a FH added above the existing RB. The upper wall has also had a FH added. The RB on the right (which was difficult to clip) was left as it is used for those leading The Sluts Alliance (24).  Sluts Honour is now graded 22, is much better protected and will probably see a lot more traffic.
p56. Return of the Fush (9) has had the final headwall corner brushed and is now quite clean. The lower half is still mossy however. Note that the clean arete/crack immediately right of the final headwall corner is the finish to an unrecorded route called Mutual Migraines (10).
p57. Unprofessional Conduct (21) can be protected with a small Metolious Master Cam and no.8 DMM wallnut at the crux. Pretty fiddly to get in properly.
p57. Under Seige (23) lost a flake many years ago and then vanished into the moss. It was recently rebolted and a much more logical direct start added by Glenn Tempest. Four RBs and an original FH. Stiff at the grade.
p57. Keystones (18). A few people have suggested that it is probably grade 17.
p58. Poxbow is probably worth 2 stars (not three).
p60. Witch is very hard for the grade. In fact many climbers think it is grade 18 or 19.
p60. The top arete between Warlock and Voodoo People makes an excellent grade 19 finish to Warlock and is protected with Voodoo’s second last bolt and a fixed peg (up slightly higher). It is still a bit mossy but will clean up with a few more ascents.
p60. Boogie Direct is now grade 24. The crux is pulling through the rooflet at the top, then up past a three-finger pocket.
p60. Warlock (18) requires good rope management if you are to protect your second and avoid rope drag. Clip the ring on Boogie’s arete (long sling) before you start the traverse and back clip the bolt on Voodoo People. Take a bolt bracket and a no.2 cam. Great pitch.
P62. Bloodline is now grade 23. The second bolt has now been replaced with a glu-in and is easier to clip. Be careful not to fall off while clipping the third ring bolt.
p62. Lola V (22). Has been re-bolted. Three new bolts have been added which makes this a much safer and more enjoyable lead. After the top hanger move up and right into Bloodline and finish up it for a much better and more sustained experience. Probably now grade 21.
p62. Bop Till You Drop (25) is missing its final bolt. Tthough technically not too difficult you’ll need to place a cam/nut or two.
p63. Boogie on a Broomstick (23) is hard to protect properly with the way the second bolt on Boogie currently is positioned.
p63. Project Closed (27). The first ascent was by Reuben Bennett-Daly. Rebolted Dec 2012. Stick clip first bolt. Extremely thin climbing to second ring. A few more hard moves lead to easier terrain past 2 more RB. DRB lower off.
p64. Good things come in small packages 12m 18. Adds approximately 4m and a grade to Wee Riper. Start at obvious jugs on the platform down left of the previous start. Fun thin sequence past 1RB gains jugs at the first UB on the original. FA Mark Atkinson 23/12/2012.

p65. The Calder Freeway exit is signposted as Kyneton, Heathcote C326.
p69. Pull the Ripcord (16). The large tree that you start Pull the Ripcord has dropped the branch that you use to start the climb. You can still do the climb from remaining part of the tree. It can be climbed by stick clipping the first bolt with a wire from the tree. The grade is still the same and the climb is still good.
p69. Maxillian LionHeart (28). Completed project now open. FA Steven Wilson March 2011.
p73. Romper Stomper (25) may be harder than grade 25.
p77. The numbers 30 and 31 on the topo are the wrong way around.
p77. Incremental. Steven Wilson suggests that this route is probably grade 22, not grade 23.
p83. The climbing on Barefoot and Pregnant is easier just left of the top two bolts (which are very difficult to clip). In fact the two top bolts should probably be relocated to make the climb both safer and more enjoyable. The climbing is currently quite scary and the way it stands the route is at least grade 19.
p83. Mark Rewi climbed Pumping Ugly Muscle (the first since it lost its initial holds) at about V7 and overall 28 (see description below).
Pumping Ugly Muscle 28 12m. Re-established via a diabolical boulder start directly below the first bolt (the jug 12 inches below the BV first bolt is out of reach… moving left to this is a variant start to BV or UV at their respective grades). Direct to first bolt via difficult reach to poor edge. Continue as per the original. FRA Mark Rewi October 2012.
p83. Bon Voyage Direct (25). Climb direct past 4 fixed hangers to gain the upper arete via technical moves. Avoid the temptation to step left into Barefoot and Pregnant and instead climb the excellent rounded arete to clip anchors above Pumping Ugly Muscle off right. This description by Mark Rewi.

p72. There should be 2 bolts shown on the topo of Sharks Fin Soup.
p88. Ebb & Flow has had a hold break off on the crux. It is now grade 21.
p88. Slither (25+) is so far only a top-rope problem and has almost certainly not been led. Not much is known about it. Update 11/11/11 Glenn Tempest and Greg Caire made the first ascent of this little technical problem. One FH and now grade 21.
p89. Jacobite was led on 11/11/11 by both Greg Caire & Glenn Tempest after placing a FH. Now grade 16.
p90. Courtyard Arete has carrots, not fixed hangers.
p90. ‘The Corner of Discontent‘ 26 8m- Overhung square cut corner with 2 ring bolts and single RB lower approximately 30m uphill from Little Bo Peep (visable through the small gully left of LBP when standing at its base). Start off ledge at 3m. Bouldery moves up fused corner lead to slabby top out. Second RB difficult to clip without draw preplaced. Bolted Kent Paterson. FFA Mark Rewi Aug 2012.
p91. Stone Cold Bush
(26). A mistake. It should have been graded 29.
p91. There should be a lower-off symbol at the top of route 24 in the topo.
p92. Kilt (18) is pretty hard to protect and is more often top-roped than led.
p92. Old Dogs, New Tricks has double rings at the top.
p98. The Main Slab is in fact 80m NORTH of Inquisition Boulders.

This place has seen an enormous amount of rain this year (early 2011). There is probably more moss than ever.
p107. Flapjack (19) no longer has a piton.

p128. Blue Haze Peak has only two rap stations instead of the three shown.  Topo on p121 is correct.
p129. So You Think I’m Gay (14). Tricky lead with fiddly pro.  Now grade 15 with two stars.
p129. Passion, Boots and Bruises (18). Possibly harder than 18.
p131. Buxton Burglar (17). Possibily harder than 17. FH might be missing.
p131. False Teeth (16). Has 4 bolts, not three.
p131. The Spirit Molecule (16). Has two FH, not three.
p131. Bald Eagle (21) and Bald Eagle Direct (22). The  numbers on the topo are the wrong way around. Bald Eagle Direct is probably more like grade 20 and worth 1 star (not 2). Carry some cams as well.

Xenith, Son of Spraggit and The Retribution corrections CATHEDRAL RANGES – NORTH JAWBONE
p132. Fruit Hustler Area and American Dream Areas are labeled incorrectly.
p141. Xenith starts up the same line as shown for Son of Spraggit to just over the overlap, then moves left to join the line as originally depicted.
p142. Son of Spraggit is missing a belay icon.
p142. The Retribution is missing a belay icon.






A rap descent has been established on the left side of the Right Buttress (directly below the finish of Travellers Slab). These are the details according to Steve Toal (via Chockstone) who did all of the work:

The rappells are approx 55 and 56m so the ground can be reached in two raps with 2x60m ropes (see notes below for options with shorter ropes). First rap is two SS Petzl rings located a small scramble down from near the top of Travellers Slab. Head down and slightly left to reach the ledges, go over these and down the face about 8m further to two more rings at a small but comfortable stance. From here, the second rap heads slightly right down the face (near Route Two) to the bottom.
Options: If you have 1x60m and 1x50m ropes, you might be able to reach the midstation by equalising the ropes as best you can. Otherwise, stop on a small stance on the face and downclimb the easy but exposed face (or belay to be safer). Don’t forget to tie stopper knots in the ends of your ropes. You can reach easy-angled slabs at the base with this rope combination and scramble down the last 2-3m of low-angle slabs. If you only have 2x50m ropes you might still consider using the rap descent. Rap down to the ledges then belay or scramble down to the rings. For the second rap, head straight down the face over roofs (watch for sharp edges) to end up reaching a stance higher up in the gully, then bash down the last few metres. Caveat: the short-rope options have not been tested. Abseiling can lead to injury or death, take suitable precautions.


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Rockclimbs Around Melbourne – new guidebook out now!

Open Spaces today released the new Rockclimbs Around Melbourne guide by Glenn Tempest. It will be available in most good climbing shops and in our online bookshop from today at a RRP of $29.95. This full colour selected climbs guide is 156 pages and has been produced in a unique landscape format to better cope with single pitch routes which represent most of Melbourne’s local areas. The guide is wire-o-bound, has a heavy duty cover and comes with an elastic closure. The areas covered in the guide are the You Yangs (Urinal Wall, Royalty Walls, Gravel Pit Tor, Flinders Peak Slabs), Falcons Lookout at Werribee Gorge, Mt Beckworth (The Main Group), Camels Hump (Lower Cliff and Omega Block), Black Hill (Mushroom Rock, The Monolith Area, Milawa Area, Eastern Lookout Area), Mt Alexander (Dog Rocks, Wabbit Rocks), Ben Cairn and the Cathedral Range (Sugarloaf Peak, South Jawbone, Blue Haze Peak and North Jawbone). Open Spaces would like to thank our advertisers and the many climbers who provided help, information and photographs to make this guide a reality

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The Burchell Trail Update (Brisbane Ranges)

The Burchell Trail has seen some major realignments. These changes effect a number of walks in our Daywalks Around Melbourne and Weekend Walks Around Melbourne guides. These changes are indicated on the new 1:30,000 Brisbane Ranges National Park map by Meridian Maps. Anyone undertaking the Burchell Trail or walks utilising sections of this walk should consult this map. It is also important to note that the current Parks Victoria Brisbane Ranges National Park Visitor Guide PDF does NOT reflect these changes and should not be used by walkers. The following walks are affected.


Walk 18 (Three Creeks Walk): The Burchell trail now runs up next to Yankee Gully from the Crossing Picnic Area to Durdidwarrah Road. This means that you can walk on a trail linking the Crossing Picnic Area to Native Youth Track instead of walking up the creek bed.


The Burchell Trail (p44): From the 14km mark the walk now parallels Switch Road before dropping down to Stony Creek Picnic Ground. From Stony Creek Picnic Ground the trail now walks to Lower Stony Creek Reservoir (instead of following the Ted Errey Nature Circuit). From the dam wall the walk continues through what was once the Barwon Water Catchment Area (now incorporated into the National Park). This section of trail finishes on the Geelong – Ballan Road, crosses it and then follows Furze Track all the way to the Old Mill Walk-in Camping Ground. Probably the biggest change along the Burchell Trail is that it no longer finishes at Steiglitz. From the Crossing Picnic Area the new Burchell Trail runs up next to Yankee Gully to Durdidwarrah Road at the Pines Campground. The Burchell Trail then continues on to Fridays Track and through to finish at Fridays Picnic and Camping Ground.

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Since we discussed Mobile Phones and Emergency Numbers we received a few queries as to who exactly is the Emergency Services Telecommunications Authority (ESTA) and what is their function. In Victoria the emergency service dispatch and call-taking for police, metropolitan ambulance, and both rural and metropolitan fire services, is handled by the Emergency Services Telecommunications Authority (ESTA). This means that when you dial 000 (triple zero) these are the guys who organise the appropriate response. But most walkers, cyclists and climbers probably don’t realise that ESTA are also the guys who install and manage those funky green Emergency Markers which dot our bushwalks (such as those in the Lerderderg Gorge), cycle paths (such as those along the Yarra River and Capital City Trails) and some climbing areas (such as those installed at various cliffs in the You Yangs). When an Emergency Marker is quoted, ESTA’s 000 transmitter can then provide specific navigational information to the responding emergency services. So, as you can see, ESTA really does play a vital role within our outdoor community.
I recently chatted to Jeff Adair (Manager Emergency Marker program at ESTA) and he is very keen to promote the roles and benefits of ESTA within our outdoor community. He provided us with a couple of interesting files. We have converted them to PDFs and have included them at the bottom of this post.

Here are a few interesting links:
You can check out ESTA’s web page at: ESTA.
Calling the Emergency Call Service from a mobile phone: FAQs.
Parks Victoria’s Emergency Markers page.
You can also email ESTA at or you can contact Jeff Adair directly on 03 86561218 to discuss any feedback or faults found with any Emergency Markers.

ESTA Fact Sheet PDF (2MB)
ESTA Marker Locations PDF (1.19MB)

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Wild Magazine covers Mt Giles

The new issue of Wild magazine (119) is hot off the press and features a spectacular cover shot by our own Glenn Tempest. The image captures Karen Tempest, Michael Hampton and Stuart Imer ascending the classic South Ridge of Mt Giles in the remote Chewings Range, West MacDonnell National Park in the Northern Territory. The image is part of a feature story written by well-known Alice Springs adventurer Michael Giacometti called Going the Extra Giles and is a great reference for walkers who may be considering an ascent of Mt Giles (1389m), which is considered by many as the most spectacular summit in Central Australia. The fact that Michael (and his wife Sharon) met Glenn (and his wife Karen) whilst on the South Ridge was an amazing coincidence considering that only a dozen or so walkers reach the summit over the course of a year. Other images by Glenn Tempest (taken on a recent 18-day traverse of the Chewings Range) accompany the story. Wild 119 also features an interesting piece written by Alex Sampson called Bushwalking Bans in the MacDonnells? The possibility of any bushwalking bans across the Chewings Range would be nothing short of a tragedy for Australian walkers.
For further details go to the Wild website.

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Parks Victoria Entry changes

Just reminding everyone using our walking guidebooks that entry to all Victorian parks (managed by Parks Victoria) is now free. This came into effect on the 01 July 2010 and marks a major policy shift for Parks Victoria.
Wilsons Promontory National Park
Point Nepean National Park
Werribee Park
Mount Buffalo National Park
Baw Baw National Park (excluding the Mt Baw Baw Alpine Resort)
Mornington Peninsula National Park
Yarra Ranges (Mount Donna Buang)

If you hold a current annual pass you will be eligible to apply for a refund from Parks Victoria.

You can check out the following media release from the Premiers office for further details.

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Walk 61, 62, 63, & 64 (Marysville)

Walk 61, 62, 63, & 64 (Marysville)

Walk 61 (Island Hop & Red Hill) is now open.

Walk 62 (Keppel Lookout & Stevenson Falls) is largely closed. Yellow Dog Picnic Area and Stevensons Falls are closed as is the walking trail linking them. The walking trail to Oxlee and De La Rue Lookouts from Keppel Lookout is open. Robertson Gully Track is open.

Walk 63 (The Beeches) Lady Talbot Drive is open as is the two short walks up to Phantom and Keppel Falls. The Beeches Picnic Area and the surrounding walking trails are still closed.

Walk 64 (Boundary Trail)  This walk is still closed. This walk is unusual as it follows a series of trails within both the Yarra Ranges National Park and in the adjoining State Forest. Sections of this walk followed non-maintained or officially not recognised trails. Therefore until a ground inspection of sections such as Goulds Track and Boundary Trail West are completed it would be best to avoid this walk. The main walking trail within the National Park (Boundary Trail East) is also closed.

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Walk 4 (Painkalac Dam)

According to Parks Victoria:

Closures due to upgrade of Painkalac Reservoir Spillway
No access to Painkalac Reservoir until late 2010.
Walking track from Distillery Creek Picnic Ground to Painkalac Reservoir closed until late 2010.
Walking track leading from Moggs Creek Picnic Ground to Gentle Annie Track remains open.
Walking track through reservoir from Distillery Creek to Moggs Creek picnic grounds closed.

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Ben Lomond Guide update

Memory Of A Journey, the climbing guide to Ben Lomond, was published in November 2008. For those of you who already own the guide and have climbed at Ben Lomond, you will know that it is the premier crack climbing venue in Australia. For those having a look at this update out of curiosity or have never been to Ben Lomond, buy the guide, book yourself a trip for next summer and experience crack climbs of singularity and purity not found elsewhere in Australia. The guidebook was comprehensive up until 2008, giving route descriptions and topo photographs to over 350 routes. The book is unique in that it also has 100 pages of memoirs by Robert McMahon, the main pioneer of new routes on the mountain. Copies are available online from Open Spaces Publishing or from the author: for $44.95.

Here is the update PDF which should be very popular indeed.