Rockclimbs Around Melbourne Corrections

These corrections have been listed by page number. They have been provided by the author and various other users of the guide. If you have any corrections that you believe are relevant please send them to Tracey Skinner at admin@osp.com.au.

Corrections in black text have already been added to our Rockclimbs Around Melbourne iPhone app.
The corrections in blue text have not been added to our Rockclimbs Around Melbourne iPhone app.

YOU YANGS
p20. The traverse on the Front Face image is marked as 27. It should be 26.
p22. The text box says “routes 16, 17, 18” are off to the right. This should be “routes 17, 18, 19”.
p23. Crinkle Cut (15) has had a bolt added to the lower section (probably the crux). By permission from the first ascentionist. The rusty carrot on the top section has been replaced by two bolts, one lower and one higher. Crinkle Cut is now a worthwhile lead for the aspiring grade 15 slab climber, but bear in mind (a) you’ll still deck if you fall off the easy moves between bolts 1 and 2 (unlikely), and (b) the top section is still run-out. The grade is probably 15 mainly because of the thin moves off the ground.
p24. Tewksbury (17) has had a second bolt added. By permission from the first ascentionist. The first 6m still has no gear, but after that the protection is reasonable until the angle eases.
p24. Bill and Ben (15). The decrepit piton has now been replaced by a bolt. The original piton is still there for now but will be removed at some stage. Note: the belay bolts for this route can be found in the right-most water runnel. The position of these bolts on the topo is about right.

FALCONS LOOKOUT
p30. There is no lower-off above Anal Crank.
p31. Slave Girl
is grade 23 to lead it from the ground placing runners as you go. Grade 22 with pre-placed gear.
p32. Snatch and Grab is pretty slick these days and is now grade 21.
p32. Cut Lunch Cowboys is too contrived and (except for the final moves) is fairly worthless. The bolts don’t inspire confidence either.
p34. Barbra Streisand is regarded by most people as grade 23.
p34. Tina the Ballerina is grade 22 only if you climb it direct up the wall. Most people veer into Vulcan which probably makes it about grade 21. This is an excellent variation though and still worth its 2 stars.
p34. Octavia is probably solid grade 19 (old-fashioned climbing).
p34. The arete between Ben Hur and Marcus Schaevola is called Scipio Africanus (17). It has three ring-bolts and a double ring lower-off. FA by Kim Wepasnick Taggart & Glenn Tempest. October 2012. 
p37. Redex Iriont Sudano (23).  Some people have suggested that this climb is fairly stiff for grade 23. It is, but it is not grade 24.
p37. Poko Wall. The first bolt is usually stick-clipped and can start up Phaedron Direct (stay left of the first two bolts) or can be started by pulling directly onto the face and crimp straight on through (some climbers consider this to be the legitimate way to do the route).
p.38. After the War 18m (24/5). May be slightly easier if tall or inclined to wander. Line of RBs 2m right of VVV. Clip first RB from block then return to ground to start. Nice boulder problem then grey streak direct (thin between 3rd and 4th bolts). From 4th RB diagonally right to finish as for TFTP to new double UB lower off. FA Mark Rewi 9/6/13.
p.38. Thomas the Crank Engine is probably grade 27 and could do with re-bolting. Very painful moves.

MT BECKWORTH
p44. The Bridge (13). The piton was recently removed and a bolt (fixed hanger) placed in almost the same position. On top of the boulder there is a badly positioned old carrot bolt and a new fixed hanger.
p47. Scansorial has a bold start. Putting brackets on the carrots is pretty tough on lead and really need replacing with FHs at some stage.
p48. Quartz Route is fairly easy for the grade and should be perhaps 16.
p48. Afternoons Direct Finish is pretty tough for grade 16 and should perhaps be 18.

CAMELS HUMP
p56. Sluts Honour has had a better start added (on the left past a new FH) and a FH added above the existing RB. The upper wall has also had a FH added. The RB on the right (which was difficult to clip) was left as it is used for those leading The Sluts Alliance (24).  Sluts Honour is now graded 22, is much better protected and will probably see a lot more traffic.
p56. Return of the Fush (9) has had the final headwall corner brushed and is now quite clean. The lower half is still mossy however. Note that the clean arete/crack immediately right of the final headwall corner is the finish to an unrecorded route called Mutual Migraines (10).
p57. Unprofessional Conduct (21) can be protected with a small Metolious Master Cam and no.8 DMM wallnut at the crux. Pretty fiddly to get in properly.
p57. Under Seige (23) lost a flake many years ago and then vanished into the moss. It was recently rebolted and a much more logical direct start added by Glenn Tempest. Four RBs and an original FH. Stiff at the grade.
p57. Keystones (18). A few people have suggested that it is probably grade 17.
p58. Poxbow is probably worth 2 stars (not three).
p60. Witch is very hard for the grade. In fact many climbers think it is grade 18 or 19.
p60. The top arete between Warlock and Voodoo People makes an excellent grade 19 finish to Warlock and is protected with Voodoo’s second last bolt and a fixed peg (up slightly higher). It is still a bit mossy but will clean up with a few more ascents.
p60. Boogie Direct is now grade 24. The crux is pulling through the rooflet at the top, then up past a three-finger pocket.
p60. Warlock (18) requires good rope management if you are to protect your second and avoid rope drag. Clip the ring on Boogie’s arete (long sling) before you start the traverse and back clip the bolt on Voodoo People. Take a bolt bracket and a no.2 cam. Great pitch.
P62. Bloodline is now grade 23. The second bolt has now been replaced with a glu-in and is easier to clip. Be careful not to fall off while clipping the third ring bolt.
p62. Lola V (22). Has been re-bolted. Three new bolts have been added which makes this a much safer and more enjoyable lead. After the top hanger move up and right into Bloodline and finish up it for a much better and more sustained experience. Probably now grade 21.
p62. Bop Till You Drop (25) is missing its final bolt. Tthough technically not too difficult you’ll need to place a cam/nut or two.
p63. Boogie on a Broomstick (23) is hard to protect properly with the way the second bolt on Boogie currently is positioned.
p63. Project Closed (27). The first ascent was by Reuben Bennett-Daly. Rebolted Dec 2012. Stick clip first bolt. Extremely thin climbing to second ring. A few more hard moves lead to easier terrain past 2 more RB. DRB lower off.
p64. Good things come in small packages 12m 18. Adds approximately 4m and a grade to Wee Riper. Start at obvious jugs on the platform down left of the previous start. Fun thin sequence past 1RB gains jugs at the first UB on the original. FA Mark Atkinson 23/12/2012.

BLACK HILL
p65. The Calder Freeway exit is signposted as Kyneton, Heathcote C326.
p69. Pull the Ripcord (16). The large tree that you start Pull the Ripcord has dropped the branch that you use to start the climb. You can still do the climb from remaining part of the tree. It can be climbed by stick clipping the first bolt with a wire from the tree. The grade is still the same and the climb is still good.
p69. Maxillian LionHeart (28). Completed project now open. FA Steven Wilson March 2011.
p73. Romper Stomper (25) may be harder than grade 25.
p77. The numbers 30 and 31 on the topo are the wrong way around.
p77. Incremental. Steven Wilson suggests that this route is probably grade 22, not grade 23.
p83. The climbing on Barefoot and Pregnant is easier just left of the top two bolts (which are very difficult to clip). In fact the two top bolts should probably be relocated to make the climb both safer and more enjoyable. The climbing is currently quite scary and the way it stands the route is at least grade 19.
p83. Mark Rewi climbed Pumping Ugly Muscle (the first since it lost its initial holds) at about V7 and overall 28 (see description below).
Pumping Ugly Muscle 28 12m. Re-established via a diabolical boulder start directly below the first bolt (the jug 12 inches below the BV first bolt is out of reach… moving left to this is a variant start to BV or UV at their respective grades). Direct to first bolt via difficult reach to poor edge. Continue as per the original. FRA Mark Rewi October 2012.
p83. Bon Voyage Direct (25). Climb direct past 4 fixed hangers to gain the upper arete via technical moves. Avoid the temptation to step left into Barefoot and Pregnant and instead climb the excellent rounded arete to clip anchors above Pumping Ugly Muscle off right. This description by Mark Rewi.

MT ALEXANDER
p72. There should be 2 bolts shown on the topo of Sharks Fin Soup.
p88. Ebb & Flow has had a hold break off on the crux. It is now grade 21.
p88. Slither (25+) is so far only a top-rope problem and has almost certainly not been led. Not much is known about it. Update 11/11/11 Glenn Tempest and Greg Caire made the first ascent of this little technical problem. One FH and now grade 21.
p89. Jacobite was led on 11/11/11 by both Greg Caire & Glenn Tempest after placing a FH. Now grade 16.
p90. Courtyard Arete has carrots, not fixed hangers.
p90. ‘The Corner of Discontent‘ 26 8m- Overhung square cut corner with 2 ring bolts and single RB lower approximately 30m uphill from Little Bo Peep (visable through the small gully left of LBP when standing at its base). Start off ledge at 3m. Bouldery moves up fused corner lead to slabby top out. Second RB difficult to clip without draw preplaced. Bolted Kent Paterson. FFA Mark Rewi Aug 2012.
p91. Stone Cold Bush
(26). A mistake. It should have been graded 29.
p91. There should be a lower-off symbol at the top of route 24 in the topo.
p92. Kilt (18) is pretty hard to protect and is more often top-roped than led.
p92. Old Dogs, New Tricks has double rings at the top.
p98. The Main Slab is in fact 80m NORTH of Inquisition Boulders.

BEN CAIRN
This place has seen an enormous amount of rain this year (early 2011). There is probably more moss than ever.
p107. Flapjack (19) no longer has a piton.

CATHEDRAL RANGESBLUE HAZE PEAK
p128. Blue Haze Peak has only two rap stations instead of the three shown.  Topo on p121 is correct.
p129. So You Think I’m Gay (14). Tricky lead with fiddly pro.  Now grade 15 with two stars.
p129. Passion, Boots and Bruises (18). Possibly harder than 18.
p131. Buxton Burglar (17). Possibily harder than 17. FH might be missing.
p131. False Teeth (16). Has 4 bolts, not three.
p131. The Spirit Molecule (16). Has two FH, not three.
p131. Bald Eagle (21) and Bald Eagle Direct (22). The  numbers on the topo are the wrong way around. Bald Eagle Direct is probably more like grade 20 and worth 1 star (not 2). Carry some cams as well.

Xenith, Son of Spraggit and The Retribution corrections CATHEDRAL RANGES – NORTH JAWBONE
p132. Fruit Hustler Area and American Dream Areas are labeled incorrectly.
p141. Xenith starts up the same line as shown for Son of Spraggit to just over the overlap, then moves left to join the line as originally depicted.
p142. Son of Spraggit is missing a belay icon.
p142. The Retribution is missing a belay icon.

 

 

 

 

 

A rap descent has been established on the left side of the Right Buttress (directly below the finish of Travellers Slab). These are the details according to Steve Toal (via Chockstone) who did all of the work:

The rappells are approx 55 and 56m so the ground can be reached in two raps with 2x60m ropes (see notes below for options with shorter ropes). First rap is two SS Petzl rings located a small scramble down from near the top of Travellers Slab. Head down and slightly left to reach the ledges, go over these and down the face about 8m further to two more rings at a small but comfortable stance. From here, the second rap heads slightly right down the face (near Route Two) to the bottom.
Options: If you have 1x60m and 1x50m ropes, you might be able to reach the midstation by equalising the ropes as best you can. Otherwise, stop on a small stance on the face and downclimb the easy but exposed face (or belay to be safer). Don’t forget to tie stopper knots in the ends of your ropes. You can reach easy-angled slabs at the base with this rope combination and scramble down the last 2-3m of low-angle slabs. If you only have 2x50m ropes you might still consider using the rap descent. Rap down to the ledges then belay or scramble down to the rings. For the second rap, head straight down the face over roofs (watch for sharp edges) to end up reaching a stance higher up in the gully, then bash down the last few metres. Caveat: the short-rope options have not been tested. Abseiling can lead to injury or death, take suitable precautions.

 

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One Response to “Rockclimbs Around Melbourne Corrections”

  1. Anthony November 20, 2013 at 9:50 am #

    There is in fact a lower off on the block above Anal Crank, but it’s somewhat awkward to access if attempting to toprope.

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