Arapiles Selected Climbs Corrections

These corrections have been listed by page number. They have been provided mainly by Simon Mentz and various other users of the guide. If you have any corrections that you believe are relevant please send them to Tracey at

p47.  Sunny Gully (grade 3) is more like grade 2 and shouldn’t have a star.
p57.  Sausage of the Century is more like grade 19 instead of 21 and has quite reasonable protection to start.
p66.  That Man Again (grade 21). The line is drawn incorrectly on the topo.

p70.  Many climbers reckon Skydiver should still be graded 21 (and not downgraded to 20).
p86 & 90.  The rap anchor above Muldoon is more like 34m (not 32m) but it is still possible to downclimb the easy chimney if using a 60m rope.
p86 & 90.  There is now a rap anchor above Agamemnon which is 30m.
p93.  Electra (grade 19) requires a full rack all the way to a no.4 Camalot and bigger if you have it.
p106.  Wyrd (grade 19) has fiddly protection. There is also a lower-off (24m) above major difficulties, but you need to traverse a few metres left from the line shown on the topo.
p125.  Double ropes are recommended for Evans Above (grade 21).
p126.  Devoid (grade 22) is pretty pokey with regards protection.
p152.  Firedance (grade 19) has fiddly, small protection and requires a confident leader.
p152.  A big hold has broken on Feral Chicken (grade 22) which makes the route even more sustained and very solid for the grade.
p157.  Counting the Days (grade 24) is probably more like grade 25.
p167.  Jenny Wren (grade 20) has a rap anchor (25m, leads to easy scrambling just above Blockbuster Ledge). The Direct Start (two bolts) is more like grade 22 (not grade 21).
p169-170.  Scorpion has two stars but is mistakenly shown as having three in the box.
p179.  Stretch Faberge (grade 22) (the original second pitch to Denim) is not as well-protected as the description implies as it relies on an ancient peg for a difficult move.
P195.  Deathwatch Beetle. In the last line it should read the second pitch in the pouring rain…
p211.  The top pitch of Voodoo through the overhang is worth doing and is about grade 16. Rap from slings.
p215. Looking Glass Wall now has a rap anchor installed between HandJob and Menage a Trois.
p222.  Uncle Charlies Right Nostril is desperate and is more like grade 26 (not grade 25).
p225.  Debarred (grade 24) is even more dodgy and contrived than previously thought.
p229.  Aftermath is pretty solid at grade 24. The supposed ‘rest’ as described near the start is very subtle and easily missed by most climbers.
P260.  Sweet Bugger All is graded 12 but it may be more difficult.
p262.  That’s Fantastic (grade 24) is marked incorrectly on the topo as it should finish just right of the arete at an anchor (20m). The bolted arete below is about grade 28.
p268.  Bossy Mothers is not grade 17 as shown on topo but grade 20 as described in text.
p277.  Smeagol is noted in italics but we didn’t mention that it has a third pitch which should read: Climb Salamander’s fourth pitch for about 4m to a good horizontal slot on the L wall. Traverse 2m L then climb direct up the black streak all the way to the top.
p281.  Gollum (grade 19) is considered fairly run-out in places.
p323.  Noddy reckons Vandal is more like 18 rather than 17. Kieran Loughran reckons its probably more like 20!
p338.  The Nude Balloon Dance (grade 8 )  isn’t worth a star.
p346.  The Parsons Nose (grade 8 )  and its Direct Start are marked the wrong way around on the topo.
p348.  Passover (grade 17) looks like rubbish and arguably is rubbish.?


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One Response to “Arapiles Selected Climbs Corrections”

  1. Bert Levy September 20, 2016 at 8:33 am #

    Simon and Glenn,
    I am not a big fan of select Guides because they leave out too many routes I have done, your Arapiles guide is an exception you have 390 of the 505 routes I have done 12 of which are not in any guide yet. I left a list of new routes with the VCC editor some of which you may want to include in the future. There are some mistakes in your guide: the rating table is incorrect I will quote 1971 Steve Roper guide to Yosemite.
    Class 1 Hiking
    Class 2 Scrambling
    Class 3 Hand and Foot holds are used
    Class 4 Some may use a rope but no pro
    Class 5 Leader will use pro
    The second pitch of Ordinary Trees is Class 3 and Trooper and Cartridge Arête are easy Class 5. Rambo Survival Route you have made the same mistake as Louise the correct first assent is found in an old edition of Rock.

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