Each of the three routes described below have been worked on in consultation with other local climbers and with the first ascentionists. These three climbs were all suffering from major issues and were either unclimbable, badly bolted and/or dangerous.
Sluts Honour has had a slightly different start added (one bolt) by coming in from the left (low down on Grey Arete). A bolt was added above the ring-bolt to better protect the crux moves (now avoiding the potential ground-fall). The top ring-bolt was originally placed too far to the right and was a major pain to clip so I added another bolt 1m horizontally to its left. I left the ring-bolt in place as it’s still convenient to protect the moves on the link-up The Sluts Alliance. Sluts Honour now climbs really well, has three 90mm x 12mm expansion bolts, a single glue-in and a more enjoyable start. The grade is probably now more like 22 (rather than its original 23). Some people will still want to place a medium cam at the stance, but most won’t bother.
Underseige had a large flake break off the crux maybe 15 years ago and the route subsequently vanished into a thick carpet of moss. The climb has now had a massive brushing and I placed glue-in lower-off anchors on top. I also removed the (original) bottom expansion bolt as it was in poor condition and refused to tighten. The top (original) expansion bolt appeared good but I replaced the hanger. I also added a much more logical direct start from the ground to avoid stepping in off the ledge. Underseige now has three glue-in ring-bolts and a single expansion bolt. Some people will still want to place a medium cam at mid height, but most won’t bother. Underseige is still about grade 23.
Lola V (on the Omega Block) was put up in the early 1980s with just the one mild-steel carrot bolt. Over the years it has had very few repeats since the bolt is rusted and there was a distinct possibility of decking off the hard moves getting to it (not to mention the massive run-out after clipping the bolt). After a brushing I added three 90mm x 12mm expansion bolts. The original carrot is still there but I’m hoping to remove it soon. After the third bolt the route is best climbed by stepping right and finishing up Bloodline to its lower-off anchors. You’ll need five draws in total (plus two more for the lower-off). Lola V is now grade 22, has nicer and better-protected climbing than Bloodline and will probably be a whole lot more popular.
